Close Encounters With Creatures Of The Sea -- Plus Suzanne Goin's Halibut With Fava Beans And Fingerling Potatoes!

Whether you surf, SUP, swim, boogie board, kayak or take part in any ocean sport, eventually you will encounter creatures of the sea. Here in Southern California, dolphins are particularly prevalent. It can be disconcerting at first to have a dolphin swim close because they can be rather large, and if you have phobias like me it can be never-wracking. However, when you get over your idiotic phobias, it's cool and somewhat awe-inspiring to be among dolphins. In Malibu, especially in winter, there was the occasional whale sighting. Then one time, just as I was entering the water near Tower 26, I felt something brush against my legs. I looked down just in time to catch a glimpse of something small but shark-like in shape, maybe a foot long, with dark spots on its body. I thought it might be a tiger shark, and when I got home and googled it, sure enough that's what it looked like. It was a baby, though, so no need to panic. Unless mama was around, I guess. I've seen schools of various fish, and Pelicans often soar overhead (okay, I know not a sea creature, a bird). Then there are the sea lions, which lately have been having a tough time off our shores, with many sick pups washing ashore in need of care. I saw one being attended to by lifeguards recently, and I hope that little guy was okay. But on my last surf session, a sea lion was following me. Seriously, if I tried paddling off in one direction, there it was, and if I changed course it did too. Another surfer even commented on it -- he was, like, "dude, that sea lion must like you!" At some point I shook him, or he swam off. At first I was a little rattled -- why is this creature following me? But then I just chuckled over it.

I don't think I've ever encountered a halibut out there. I'd probably remember if I did, because the halibut is a flat fish, and therefore somewhat funky looking. I have, however, encountered halibut on the plate. In fact we love halibut, maybe because it's such a mild fish. So after the past couple of surf sessions, with all these encounters with creatures of the sea, I was at McCall's Meat and Fish in Los Feliz, and there was some really sweet looking Halibut -- in fact the season for halibut is just getting under way. When I saw it, I thought of a great recipe I've made from Suzanne Goin's "Sunday Suppers At Lucques," which features fingerling potatoes, fava beans and pea shoots along with the halibut. This dish you see here:

Okay, I'll admit this is not the simplest recipe; it has a few steps, and some ingredients you probably don't have on hand. But I made it once for dinner guests, and it didn't fail to impress. Because it's Spring, the favas and the Meyer lemons and the pea shoots are available at your local farmer's market, and maybe even some supermarkets. Of course you can cook the potatoes and prep the fava beans ahead, and you can also make the creme fraiche and lemon salsa earlier too. So plan a little, and give it a try if you're a halibut fan. I've mentioned this before, but if you like to cook get a copy of "Sunday Suppers At Lucques". You'll be glad you did.

Halibut with Fingerlings, Fava Beans, Meyer Lemon and Savory Creme Fraiche
(recipe adapted from Suzanne Goin's "Sunday Suppers At Lucques")
Serves 6

6 halibut filets, about 6 ounces each
1 meyer lemon, zested
1 tbsp. thyme leaves
2 tbsps. Italian Parsley, roughly chopped
2 pounds (in pods) fresh fava beans
1 1/4 pounds small fingerling potatoes
5 tbsps. unsalted butter
2 tbsps. extra virgin olive oil
4 ounces pea shoots
Savory creme fraiche (recipe follows)
Meyer lemon salsa (recipe follows)

1. Season halibut with lemon zest, thyme and parsley. Cover and refrigerate 4 hours, or overnight. Fill a small saucepan with water and bring to boil. Remove fava beans from pods. Drop beans into boiling water for about 1 minute, then drain and plunge into cold water. Now use your fingers to remove and discard the tough outer peel, reserving just the bright green beans themselves. set aside.
2. Place potatoes in a medium pot. Cover with cold water by 4 inches. Add 1 tbsp. salt. Bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer until potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. Reserve a cup of cooking water and drain potatoes. When cool, lightly smash them with the heel of a hand.
3. Heat a large sauté pan over medium heat.  Add 4 tbsps. of the butter, smashed potatoes, and stir until potatoes are coated with butter. Season to taste with salt. Add fava beans and a few tbsps. of reserved potato water. Remove from heat, cover and set aside.
4. Remove fish from refrigerator 15 minutes before cooking. Season filets with salt and pepper. Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes (note: I used a smaller pan as I was cooking 2 filets this time. You may have to use two pans if cooking all six, or cook them in batches). Swirl in the olive oil, and 1 tbsp. butter. When foam subsides, lay in halibut filets. Cook without disturbing 3-4 minutes, until fish is lightly browned and starting to crisp. Turn fish, lower heat to medium-low and cook a few more minutes, until fish is starting to flake and almost cooked through. Remove from heat. Set aside.
5. Turn on the heat under the potatoes and favas to medium. Toss until they're heated through, then add the pea shoots. Continue cooking a minute or so more, until pea shoots begin to wilt. Season with salt and pepper if needed.
6. Spoon the potatoes onto warm plates. Dot half the creme fraiche over them and spoon half the lemon salsa on top. Arrange halibut filets over potatoes. Spoon remaining creme fraiche and lemon salsa over each piece of fish.

Savory Creme Fraiche

(note: Chef Goin says if you can't find fresh savory, you may substitute equal parts fresh rosemary, parsley and mint -- that's what I did, as I couldn't get Savory, and we had the other herbs growing in the garden).

2 tsps. savory leaves (or the combination mentioned above)

3/4 cup creme fraiche (or you can substitute sour cream)

1. Finely mince herbs. Stir into creme fraiche or sour cream. Season with a little salt and pepper.

Meyer Lemon Salsa

2 large or 3 small Meyer lemons
2 tbsps. finely diced shallots
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp. minced savory (or do like I did…a combination of mint, rosemary and parsley)
1 tbsp. sliced mint (less if you do the substitution)
2 tbsps. chopped Italian parsley (again, less if you do the substitution)
Salt and fresh ground pepper

1. Supreme the lemons. C'mon, you know how to do this, right? Okay, kidding! But if you do, do it. If not, cut both ends off lemons and then slice off the skin and pith. Then carefully slice between membrane and fruit to remove just the segments of fruit. Place segments in a small bowl and reserve juice, removing seeds (it helps to do this over a bowl so you capture all that juice. You should have about 1/4 cup).
2. Place juice in a small bowl with shallots and 1/4 tsp. salt. Let sit for 5 minutes, then slowly whisk in olive oil. Stir in the lemon segments and the herbs. Season with salt an pepper, if needed.